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JSebWC

The Noob and His Rolex Build.

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I can't help you on that. See how you go, worst case, we have some talented guys who may be able to help you by opening up the dial opening a bit. You are needing 0.6mm. Another option is to look at how the minute track sits, maybe you can reduce the size of the dial slightly and not end up with the minute track partially hidden.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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What did you use to sand off the Cyclops. I assume the Cyclops was plexi but is the actual crystal plexi as well or is is sapphire.

Also I used helenarou for a custom Explorer dial and she did have a couple options on diameters. I would hit her up to see if she can get you one in the size you are looking for. Hers are ETA feet also.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I can't help you on that. See how you go, worst case, we have some talented guys who may be able to help you by opening up the dial opening a bit. You are needing 0.6mm. Another option is to look at how the minute track sits, maybe you can reduce the size of the dial slightly and not end up with the minute track partially hidden.

Yeah. I think reducing the dial diameter is probably the easier of the two. Although I am not sure how to go about this without completely buggering up the dial

Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkWhat did you use to sand off the Cyclops. I assume the Cyclops was plexi but is the actual crystal plexi as well or is is sapphire.

Also I used helenarou for a custom Explorer dial and she did have a couple options on diameters. I would hit her up to see if she can get you one in the size you are looking for. Hers are ETA feet also.

I used a dremel with a sanding drum to deduct the height of the cyclops. Once it was down I used sand paper. 180. Dry and Wet sanded with 400 800 and 1000. Then Poly watch.

Thanks for the tip. I will try contacting her to see if she can provide any help with a dial

And here I thought this was the easier of the two builds.

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First, what is the diameter of the dial that came with your 1655? Does it fit the case with no 'wiggle-room' at all? You might have some flexibility as 1mm isn't much room.

 

I have reduced the diameter on dials, and made dials round from flat stock, by using a bamboo shish-ka-bob skewer as an 'axle' in the center hole, and lightly touching it, making the dial spin on the axle, to a bench grinder.

caution: Using metal as an axle will ruin the dial by enlarging the center hole while spinning!

A toothpick isn't strong enough and will break. The bamboo is strong enough. Afterward you can use that bamboo stick to apply lume.

 

Holding the axle and using my thumbs on each side to steady the dial, I touch the dial edge to the bench grinder slightly. The dial will spin on the axle, and grind a tad, then stop and fit to the case. It usually takes a few times as you don't want to take too much or overheat the paint on the dial. If you have a spare dial you can practice.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The big fear with reducing dial size is paint flaking. There are some threads. I believe members have had success by protecting the dial face and mounting the dial on a spindle such as a dremel, then holding sanding paper to the spinning dial. Slow, patient and very careful I would think. As I mentioned, ensure the chapter ring will not be hidden first. Do your research, take a brave pill, then go for it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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10 hours ago, JoeyB said:

 

 

 

First, what is the diameter of the dial that came with your 1655? Does it fit the case with no 'wiggle-room' at all? You might have some flexibility as 1mm isn't much room.

 

 

 

 

 

I have reduced the diameter on dials, and made dials round from flat stock, by using a bamboo shish-ka-bob skewer as an 'axle' in the center hole, and lightly touching it, making the dial spin on the axle, to a bench grinder.

 

 

caution: Using metal as an axle will ruin the dial by enlarging the center hole while spinning!

 

 

A toothpick isn't strong enough and will break. The bamboo is strong enough. Afterward you can use that bamboo stick to apply lume.

 

 

 

 

 

Holding the axle and using my thumbs on each side to steady the dial, I touch the dial edge to the bench grinder slightly. The dial will spin on the axle, and grind a tad, then stop and fit to the case. It usually takes a few times as you don't want to take too much or overheat the paint on the dial. If you have a spare dial you can practice.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The diameter is 27.5

the inside diameter of the case under the rehault is 28.0

 

Thanks for specifying the metal axel on the dial I was thinking of trying to mount it a dremel cut off bit shaft and spin it against sand paper.... this seemed somewhat controlled to me. perhaps I can mount the bamboo into the dremel and then use some rodico on the end to prevent the dial from flying off into no mans land....

 

I like your idea but I would be afraid of making contact with the dial and having the applied markers break off...and the heat effecting the finish is also a consideration.

 

both ways sound like a quick way to flush 135 bucks to me...hahah I should order a few me thinks , along with hand sets and I know my chances of butchering the seconds hand is pretty good too :/

 

Thanks for the suggestions...if anyone would care to volunteer to perform this machining I would be happy to compensate them for their time and of course a bonus for not destroying the dial hahah

 

 

6 hours ago, Sogeha said:

 

 

 

The big fear with reducing dial size is paint flaking. There are some threads. I believe members have had success by protecting the dial face and mounting the dial on a spindle such as a dremel, then holding sanding paper to the spinning dial. Slow, patient and very careful I would think. As I mentioned, ensure the chapter ring will not be hidden first. Do your research, take a brave pill, then go for it.

 

 

 

 

yup thats what I was thinking.....yeah slow and steady is the pace for sure....lots of measuring and patience!! brave pill ha I was thinking big boy pants! haha

 

I will search around for threads...

 

 

 

 

24 minutes ago, jigelow said:

 

 

 

Could you tape off the dial to prevent flaking? Painter tape maybe since it's not a strong adhesive? I suppose it depends on the level of finish the dial resides in during the work.

 

 

 

yes but the dial in question has applied markers and cornet and would be concerned about these braking off, while spinning or on removing the tape.

 

yes I would be concerned that the tape may pull the finish from the dial as well... who knows what their finish process is. their meant to look pretty not be handled excessively and have adhesives applied to them

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The big fear with reducing dial size is paint flaking. There are some threads. I believe members have had success by protecting the dial face and mounting the dial on a spindle such as a dremel, then holding sanding paper to the spinning dial. Slow, patient and very careful I would think. As I mentioned, ensure the chapter ring will not be hidden first. Do your research, take a brave pill, then go for it.

It's not only about the chapter ring.

The "TSwissT" @6 could be hiden and that would really be a pity.

Envoyé de mon XT1068 en utilisant Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I can only speak on GMT and Sub dials that had a chapter ring, I have no knowledge of others. The chapter ring diameter itself is 26mm. That's why the long minute hand on the early 1950s models had a 13mm minute hand, and they all had a 13mm GMT hand.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, manodeoro said:

 

 

 

 

It's not only about the chapter ring.

The "TSwissT" @6 could be hiden and that would really be a pity.

Envoyé de mon XT1068 en utilisant Tapatalk

 

 

 

It would be a shame ...but if only loose the TswissT and not destroy the dial before I can fit it into the case it will be an achievement and the swiss sacrifice will be worth it

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I think this project is dead in the water unless I step it up a notch.

 

Yuki doesn't offer hand sets for eta or dg movements only gen movements...as the dial is set up for gen 1570/1520/1530/1560 movements.

 

 

Raffles doesn't have hand sets for 1019...only 6541 I swore I saw them there but I was mistaken.

 

So I would need to find a gen movement to make this work...$1500.00 later....

 

*SIGH*

 

 

So I think this project is dead in the water.

Yuki only had handsets for Gen 1570/1520/1530/1560 movements.

 

Raffles only has handsets for 6541 I thought I saw 1019 hands but I was mistaken.

 

So in order to complete this I would need to step up to a gen movement and still managed to somehow cram that dial into my case.

 

Gen movements $1500 +

 

*Sigh*

 

suggestions anyone?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Most all the watch material supply houses have hands to fit ETA. Try Otto Frei.

 

No offense, but if .5mm and a set of hands is enough to stop you, don't bother trying to build a 6542.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Most all the watch material supply houses have hands to fit ETA. Try Otto Frei.

 

No offense, but if .5mm and a set of hands is enough to stop you, don't bother trying to build a 6542.

Thanks for the suggestions and kick in the pants. Baha. I'll check them out and see if I come up with anything. Appreciate the suggestions

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A good machinist would be able to increase the diameter of the dial seat beneath the rehaut, so you have to remove less from the dial. And years ago member Donerix did a tutorial on modifying a dial opening to enlarge it, by sanding back the rehaut. Those together plus some judicious sanding, ought to get that dial to fit.

 

But if you mount the dial to an ETA movement with dots (after cutting off the feet) you might need to machine the dial seat anyway to reduce the stem height. You can do both at the same time.

 

Compare the post sizes for 1570/1520/1530/1560 movements vs. ETA and you might find a little broaching or staking will make them work. I did that for my Big Gonzo, the only real problem was the amount that had to come off the hours hand. Machining down the hands seat on the hours wheel helped.

 

There's more than one road to Rome..............

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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6 hours ago, Nanuq said:

 

 

 

A good machinist would be able to increase the diameter of the dial seat beneath the rehaut, so you have to remove less from the dial. And years ago member Donerix did a tutorial on modifying a dial opening to enlarge it, by sanding back the rehaut. Those together plus some judicious sanding, ought to get that dial to fit.

 

 

 

 

 

But if you mount the dial to an ETA movement with dots (after cutting off the feet) you might need to machine the dial seat anyway to reduce the stem height. You can do both at the same time.

 

 

 

 

 

Compare the post sizes for 1570/1520/1530/1560 movements vs. ETA and you might find a little broaching or staking will make them work. I did that for my Big Gonzo, the only real problem was the amount that had to come off the hours hand. Machining down the hands seat on the hours wheel helped.

 

 

 

 

 

There's more than one road to Rome..............

 

 

 

Thank you for the info I appreciate your incite Nanuq.

 

I have not looked at the inside of the case but I am sure it could be sanded down to make room for the dial....since it doesn't have to look pretty I just dont know if I will have enough room to get tools in there to make that room....this seems less risky than shaving down the dial... my fears are hitting the chapter ring or hitting the case back thread if I tape these up it will add some protection....

 

 

 

 

Here is some info I have found on hand sizes..

 

 

Rolex 1580 Movement hand size is .80/1.30/.20 apparently all the 1500 series movements use the same hand size.

 

and the hand set sizes for ETA Movements are:

 

Almost all current 11-1/2 ligne ETA mechanicals take .90/1.50/.25 hands. I do not know if the chineese ETA Clones are of the same size I will keep digging and see if this is true.

 

 

I am no rocket genius but it looks like the hands that yuki offers could be fit on there with some persuasion and a bitta lube! lol Yuki will sell the dial separate from the hand set but I think I will get the set and see if I can make it work...

 

 

Thanks again everyone for the tuff love and the ideas and thoughts....its a huge help.

 

 

ETA 2824 hand dimensions are as follows:Hour: 150 (1.50mm)Minute: 90 (0.90mm)Seconds: 20 (0.20mm)DG2813 hands are as follows:Hour: 150 (1.50mm)Minute: 100 (1.00mm)Seconds: 17 (0.17mm)You can drill out the ETA2824 minute hand, with a 1mm jeweler's drill bit and it'll work just fine. You can also "squeeze" the second hands stem slightly to reduce the diameter a bit, that part is a bit of a trail and error. I've done both and it works fine. Getting a 1mm drill bit and a pin-vice (for clamping the hands and lining up the holes before you drill) is a great investment, as it opens up a lot of different hands to be used with DG2813. (Seiko's 7S26 movement's hand sizes are H:150, M:90, S:22, so the drill would work for seiko hands as well).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Bit of an update.

Changed my order with Yuki. Gonna get the 1019 dial and handset. Also inquired about their case set cause faraday cage. Why not right ? We'll see what they have to say.

In the meanwhile, I received my case back tool in the mail today so I opened up my 14270 to measure the dial and movement. The case can easily handle the 29mm dial. So I may consider this as an alternative. Aka " easy way out ".

The idea of getting a Yuki case set and sourcing a gen 1560 movement is now a consideration. But I'm sure I'll snap outta it.

emoji38_vzp03x5w2ck.png

emoji38_vzp03x5w2ck.png

I think I will need assistance from a more experienced Modder to machine the dial , broach the hand and assemble. Into the modded 1655 case. I will get figure that out when the dial and hands arrive.

imageproxy_upmhbfocae1.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bit of an update.

Changed my order with Yuki. Gonna get the 1019 dial and handset. Also inquired about their case set cause faraday cage. Why not right ? We'll see what they have to say.

In the meanwhile, I received my case back tool in the mail today so I opened up my 14270 to measure the dial and movement. The case can easily handle the 29mm dial. So I may consider this as an alternative. Aka " easy way out ".

The idea of getting a Yuki case set and sourcing a gen 1560 movement is now a consideration. But I'm sure I'll snap outta it.

emoji38_vzp03x5w2ck.png

emoji38_vzp03x5w2ck.png

I think I will need assistance from a more experienced Modder to machine the dial , broach the hand and assemble. Into the modded 1655 case. I will get figure that out when the dial and hands arrive.

imageproxy_upmhbfocae1.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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