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ceejay

Another Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre 16

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After seeing SSTEEL's recent acquisition and subsequent gen modifications of this Tag I just had to have one

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I got in touch with Josh and the deal was done, QC pics arrived promptly and approved, a few day later it arrived...super quick!

 

All the hands on the QC pic's zeroed ok. So I started the chrono, waited and then done a reset. We have a problem...

 

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No worries, I am currently doing a Horology course so resetting the chrono seconds hand easy & good practice

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I had to resize the bracelet, I don't have a pin device yet so cut a suitable size needle in half and drilled a small hole in a piece of boxwood. Turned the bracelet on it's side and tapped out the first pin, it slipped out no problems. I had to remove 3 links in total. The pins went back in easy enough and from there I treated the bracelet including end links and spring bars to a bath of Dry Wax Lube.

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Gave it a good wiggle and soak and then took the parts out and put them on the radiator to dry.

 

Next it was time to remove the case back, winding stem and movement clamps. No problems there

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Then...One of the chrono pushers fell out! Under a loupe I could see the other pusher was held in by a tiny circlip. when I looked at the pusher that had came out the circlip was still present but the groove in the pusher pin was too deep and the cir clip had been closed up too much allowing it to pass through the case. Incase anyone is interested there are 2 O rings on the pushers, a good sign until I found none on the Crown?

Anyway I had to remove this circlip and open it up a touch. Heres what kind of size we are talking about.

 

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Now I actually dropped this circlip not once,but twice on the floor, how I found it was a miracle.

To open it up I slid it over the top of a suitable size needle and gently tapped it down the needle shaft until it opened slightly

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Then I lost it again...and found it

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:D

Sorted, phew that was a tricky one!

 

Next I removed and reset the the chrono seconds hand and begun putting it back together.

I cleaned and regreased the case back gasket.

 

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Job done and sitting proudly on my skinny wrist

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I will probably try and get a gen dial and hands for this as SSteel done with his, it's a cracking watch!

 

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The Dry Wax Lube stops bracelets from having the tinny rattling noise, making them silky smooth and more gen like. It will also reduce wear in the long run. It's a cheap and effective treatment.

It doesn't have to be TF2, any dry wax lube from your local cycle shop will do

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Congrats Ceejay mate, I told you that you would love it

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Great job on the Chronograph hand correction, and that really tricky pusher retainer c-clip.

 

Which pusher was it? My start pusher can be rotated in situ, but the reset pusher is fixed. Did you notice how the pusher actually slotted into the case? Were there and visible threads seen in the case holes? As you know I have a pair of gen pushers which I would love to fit too, and if there is a thread in the case, this may save me some time.

 

Give me a shout when you want your genuine parts, and I will put a good word in for you

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Surprised your rep crown don't have a o-ring in it, mine did, and of course my gen does, and gives it a nice tight fit on the non-screw down tube.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 29, 2013 by SSTEEL

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Congrats Ceejay mate, I told you that you would love it

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Great job on the Chronograph hand correction, and that really tricky pusher retainer c-clip.

 

Which pusher was it? My start pusher can be rotated in situ, but the reset pusher is fixed. Did you notice how the pusher actually slotted into the case? Were there and visible threads seen in the case holes? As you know I have a pair of gen pushers which I would love to fit too, and if there is a thread in the case, this may save me some time.

 

Give me a shout when you want your genuine parts, and I will put a good word in for you

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Surprised your rep crown don't have a o-ring in it, mine did, and of course my gen does, and gives it a nice tight fit on the non-screw down tube.

 

Cheers fella

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It was the start pusher and mine are the same, start pusher can be rotated, reset pusher can't (couldn't make out why?). Unfortunately there is no threads in there. It looks like a tube has been pressed into the case and the pusher just slides through that. Depending on the diameter of the gen pusher at the threads it may be possible to drill/tap the pusher tube to accept the gens but if it goes wrong your case is finished.

Where was the o-ring on your crown? was it inside the crown/winding stem tube. I might of missed it as it seems a bit strange to put 2 o-rings on the pusher and none on the crown?

 

Soon as I'm ready for a upgrade I will give you a shout...Cheers

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RE; The crown, the o-ring is inside the crown itself, look with a loupe.

 

Strange how only the start pusher rotates, I will investigate this further....

 

If the rep pushers simply slide into a sleeve pushed into the case holes, I can't see this passing my water resistance testing when I get my equipment. Of course I will remove my Gen movement before doing so.

 

I will document the progress on my gen pushers, as I have a donor case on its way to me soon to experiment on

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I was thinking the same too about tap, and die, but will see what the measurements are with that pressed in sleeve are first.

 

I am also going to document on the removal, and replacement of the bezel/insert on the rep. I am on the look out for a gen case, but rocking horse poo.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 29, 2013 by SSTEEL

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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RE; The crown, the o-ring is inside the crown itself, look with a loupe.

 

Strange how only the start pusher rotates, I will investigate this further....

 

If the rep pushers simply slide into a sleeve pushed into the case holes, I can't see this passing my water resistance testing when I get my equipment. Of course I will remove my Gen movement before doing so.

 

I will document the progress on my gen pushers, as I have a donor case on its way to me soon to experiment on

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I was thinking the same too about tap, and die, but will see what the measurements are with that pressed in sleeve are first.

 

I am also going to document on the removal, and replacement of the bezel/insert on the rep. I am on the look out for a gen case, but rocking horse poo.

 

Lovely stuff, I look forward to hearing from you.

I went into a Tag Heuer AD last Saturday and tried on the gen of this and the new version with the new movement and ceramic bezel, the new one has a lovely in house movement & loses the day feature, it's a fair bit more expensive too.

The gen of this one is almost as good as our rep's

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thanks for the tip!

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You're welcome

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Just to add, if you do give it a go make sure you let the lube dry completely then give it a buff with a old cloth and then move on to final polish with a clean cloth

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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My start pusher can be rotated in situ, but the reset pusher is fixed.

 

It was the start pusher and mine are the same, start pusher can be rotated, reset pusher can't (couldn't make out why?).

I found out today mate why the start pusher can be rotated, whilst the reset pusher cannot. The reset pusher, the part which touches the actual movement trigger is cut at an angle. Will post some photos in a second...

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 18, 2013 by SSTEEL

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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But this is actually not what is preventing the reset button to rotate. Upon closer inspection, I notice that the reset pusher shaft has two flat edges, here's a shot of one of those flat edges...

 

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Then when you look closely at the reset tube/hole from the outside of the case, looks normal, and round, but its only when you look at the same tube/hole from inside the case you can see two flat edges on the circumference...

 

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So, I am guessing this has something to do with the A7750 reset trigger. These two notches restrict the reset pusher from fitting into the case one of two ways....

 

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I need to take a look inside my franken Carrera, and get some photos of how the rep reset pusher touches the Swiss ETA 7750 reset trigger, as I don't want to be causing any damage to my genuine movement in there.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 18, 2013 by SSTEEL

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Ahhh....so that explains it, thanks for the detective work and great photos as always.

Out of interest, can the gen pushers rotate like the reset pusher on the rep?

My auto wind is still not working, I have had a good look and it appears that something is slipping under pressure down by the barrel. It's way too deep in the movement for me to attempt so I am debating whether to send it off for repair and service vs getting a gen movement, a gen eta movement or just hand winding until it gives up and sort out the problem then.

Had it on the timegrapher tonight and it's running really sweet, with a good 2 days power reserve. I'm really tempted to leave it be as I have worn it exclusively since I got it and its my fave watch now

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Ahhh....so that explains it, thanks for the detective work and great photos as always.

Out of interest, can the gen pushers rotate like the reset pusher on the rep?

 

 

Thanks. I am unser as the genuine pushers screw into the case, but will check the push part on the pushers later today, if I get time, and check, then let you know.

 

Hope you manage to get your Carrera sorted out mate one way or another.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 19, 2013 by SSTEEL

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Update for you CeeJay mate, the gen pushers do not rotate, so when they are actually screwed into the case, they won't rotate at all.

 

I tried to get a photo of the rep angled cut reset pusher just now, but its tricky to see due to the movement holder.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The next steps are to measure, make notes, then offer up the gen pushers to the case, measure up again, then tap out those rep pusher tube, and make more measurements before finally cutting them down to size, and tap a thread into them for the gen pushers.

 

Once this is done I will screw in the gen pushers into the new threaded tubes, sealing with some good, waterproof sealant, but not too strong as I cannot unscrew at a later date.

 

Then offer up the modded tube/pusher to find its sweet spot, then bond into place with a very strong 2 part water resistant epoxy resin to ensure water resistance.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 19, 2013 by SSTEEL

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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