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Cartier Calibre de Cartier: Discussion, and Gen vs. Rep Photo Comparison

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Description of the Gen

Reproduced from: http://cartier.watchprosite.com/show...ti-615766/s-0/

Launched at SIHH 2010, the Calibre de Cartier is a sharp departure from Cartier’s other lines. Conceived entirely as a sports, or at least sporty, men’s watch, the Calibre is aimed at a segment in which Cartier has yet to establish a significant presence.

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Cartier has made sports watches thorough its storied past. The watch designed for the Pasha of Marrakesh to swim with was a notable early waterproof watch while the Santos was designed as an aviator’s watch. But because of their refined aesthetics neither of these watches or their descendants can truly be regarded as sports watch in the modern sense of the term.

More recently Cartier has presented watches like the Roadster and 21 Chronoscaph, as well as the Pasha Seatimer which features a rotating elapsed time bezel. Last year saw Cartier unveil one of its most aesthetically radical watches, the Santos 100 coated in black ADLC. All of these watches, however, are derivatives of existing designs.

In contrast, the Calibre de Cartier is a wholly new design, conceived for a particular segment. It is not a diver’s watch like the Rolex Sea-Dweller, nor a pilot’s watch like the IWC Mark XVI; instead it is the kind of watch that is entirely suitable for daily wear to the office and perhaps to the gym. It is, in short, a type of watch that caters to a very broad market.

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Yet this watch is hardly bland or generic. While the Calibre de Cartier retains design flourishes that are identified with Cartier, like the sword hands and sapphire in the crown, it looks and feels very different from any Cartier that has come before, primarily due to its large and sculpted case.

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But what’s inside the new case is equally significant. The Calibre de Cartier uses a new in-house calibre, the 1904 MC, a simple and robust movement with evident potential for production on a large scale. Coupled with its US$6500 retail price, it puts the Calibre in a strong position relative to others in this price range.

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Description of the Replica

I just received this Calibre de Cartier replica from Robert. It seems nicely made, and very substantial. A few quick observations:

1. The crystal on the front is domed and appears to be sapphire (by the water drop test). The display caseback is mineral glass.

2. The links have screws (small, and easy to lose, ask me how I know...) on each side, and a bar in between, with two half links for adjustment. I removed 1.5 links to fit my 6.75" wrist.

3. The date is very slightly obscured by the arrow in the middle of the date aperture when looking at the watch face on.

4. The hands are lumed (very weak), and only the four indices at 12, 3, 6, and 9 on the chapter ring are lumed.

5. The rehaut is fluted, like the gen.

6. There is no AR on the sapphire crystal, unlike the gen.

Compared to the ETA version from the cartel, the petite seconds subdial appears to be more correctly placed, as it is not supposed to intersect the chapter ring. The movement in the display caseback is a clear tell, but I guess the same could be said of the ETA movement, although a silver colored sandblasted asian 21j movement might have been less glaring than the gold tone 21j movement that this watch has.

The most significant difference, apart from the movement, is the case height. The replica has a higher case, and the dimensions of the crown guard and the lugs appear to have been scaled proportionately. From the photo comparison, you'll see that the lugs have larger curvature on the replica, and the crown guards are thicker as well. The lugs on the gen have a beveled edge which is polished, and on the replica, both the bevel and the polish are much less pronounced.

Photo Comparison

The gen photos that follow are from this article:

http://www.ablogtoread.com/cartier-c...with-bracelet/

This is a photo of the replica in bright natural light.

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I have tried to pose my replica in a similar position, so that it is easier to make a comparison. The gen has the black dial, and the rep has the white dial. I did not compare the deployant clasp, but it appears to have been accurately reproduced on the rep.

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Homages

There is a homage to the Tourbillon version of the Calibre de Cartier from Tao International, but it is a faux tourbillon, which is essentially an open heart (exposed balance wheel) movement, with a petite seconds pointer that mimics the look of a tourbillon cage. This particular watch is huge, at around 46mm across.

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Homage from Tao International

http://www.rw-forum.com/uploads/monthly_04_2015/Cartier

Gen

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Thanks for this nice little overview!

Really interested in the many Cartier reps out there and the general consensus is that the best replicated versions seem to be the Santos and the Ballon Bleu models. However this also looks like a very nice replica which I have never really considered before until now!

A lovely watch, another one added to my recent wish list. Hopefully the factories can bring out several more 'ultimate' versions

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Saw the gen rose gold with brown croc strap and white face at a local dealer and this watch is STUNNING. Looking forward to viewing the reps and it might be on my next watch purchase list. Though...Invicta has some killer GENS that are going to be released later this year that have my interest as well...

 

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Yes, the Tao homage is very nice, $94 from Tao directly. I had one a while back, and sold it. Kind of miss it to be honest. It was just a bit too big for me at 46mm (not including the crown). It's a pity that the stainless steel version is sold out, but they still have the gold plated ones available for the same price.

Also, unlike the replica, the faux tourbillon on the Tao is better implemented, since it uses a petite seconds in front of the balance wheel to make the faux tourbillon more convincing. Here's a photo:

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http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/sho...ion-84014.html

 

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