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Posts posted by automatico



    "Have the same watch....same issue, keep bending spring bars....Is there an option for original equipment tag heuer bars that are stronger?? I have a gen Tag heuer watch and still haven't been through a the original set of spring bars, and i have given that watch hell....So what options do we have??"


    Make sure the replacement springbars are stainless steel, not plated brass like supplied in a lot of replicas.

    If it is 20mm between lugs...one cheap fix is to use late model swiss made generic springbars for late model blind lug hole submariners...they are strong enough to last.


    There is always a catch...if the strap is loose between the lugs or made of soft rubber, the springbars can pop out once in a while because the strap can get pulled over to one side and lever the springbar out when it straightens up. This can happen when the watch is worn tight and shoved/pulled up or down on the wrist with enough force to pull the springbar out of the hole in a lug.

    This is one very good reason to have holes all the way through dive watch lugs and springbars that 'zero out' between the lugs like vintage submariners, GMT, Exp II, 1016 etc.


    I have a few genuine T/H and they all have 20mm lug spaces and use single shoulder springbars with 1.8mm center tubes. The only difference from a standard single or double shoulder generic 1.8mm springbar is the tips are a little bit longer where they fit into the lug holes. They must be pretty tough as one of the watches is an old black coated T/H 1000 with half of the black finish worn off the bracelet and case with the MG crystal scratched like an old Coke bottle. Knowing the guy I got it from, I doubt it has ever seen the inside of a repair shop except for batt changes now and then...the springbars were Ok though.



    I felt sorry for the T/H 1000 and recently took it apart and bead blasted the case along with a fresh jubilee type steel bracelet, installed a new crystal, springbars/gaskets and it looks good again. I used generic springbars made for a late model blind lug hole DJ.

    I taped over the goldtone rotating bezel and used a dummy crown while blasting the case so the bezel and crown are still goldtone along with the hands and wrting on the dial.

    It sorta has a 'stealth' appearance now.














    Might run across one on eBay, search for 'TAG Heuer parts'. Since the watch appears to be high mileage (very high), a better bracelet would be nice too. Sometimes you can find a non running watch like the one pictured for a low price because it costs so much to repair them thanks to T/H ripoff parts prices.

    If it was mine, I would remove the battery, throw it in a drawer, and remember it fondly.














    "I've seen some extra tall dial spacers but haven't found them to purchase separately. Likely the rep makers include them in certain builds."


    So far, I have been able to get by with punching dimples in the original spacers when needed...the dimples only amount to .2mm or .3mm so the stems still line up Ok. I have also made brass spacers that are tall enough to mount the dial on for a few projects that had dials with no feet...the distance above the movement needed for the date disc can be figured in when making the spacer. A friend with a machine shop turned a stack of 2.3mm thick brass flat washers down to 32mm od with 24mm centers for spacer blanks. The washers were originally about 20mm id x 50mm od iirc. It usually takes an couple hours to make a spacer using one of the rough blanks on my small Sherline lathe.













    There are three main problems with date wheel overlays (DWO) on eta 28xx movements:


    1...Date wheel overlay rubs the underside of the dial because it is mounted on top of the original date wheel. This causes the date to change half way, not at all, or at random times during the day...random times because it sticks for a while, then comes loose.

    2...Trouble installing the date wheel with overlay installed.

    3...Hands too close to the dial.


    1...Easy fix for problem one is to put a series of dimples in the calendar spacer ring so the dimples will hold the dial a fraction of a mm higher above the DWO. Use a small screwdriver or punch to make the dimples and try to make them all as close to the same as possible. Not much is needed, just enough to keep the DWO from rubbing the dial.

    Reminder: taller dimples = less space between dial and hands, less purchase for hands on CP/hour wheel.


    2...There is no easy way to install a date wheel with the DWO installed but it is easier if you remove the date jumper plate (and spring) when removing the date wheel and install them after the dw with overlay is put back in place to prevent damage to the dw and overlay. Look at a parts pic to find the date jumper plate (p/n 2595), the date jumper aka 'index spring' (p/n 2784) is under it. Most of the hassle is caused by the index spring (with slight tension on it) being mounted under the date jumper plate, but with a little practice it becomes easier. Take care not to dislodge the DWO from the date wheel with a screwdriver or the screw when r/r the screw holding the jumper plate because there is very little space between the screw and DWO.

    You might get by with removing the other part that holds the calendar wheel in place...minute train bridge (p/n 462), but it has two little wings that have to be slid into slots in the plate plus the screw that holds it in place is partially covered by the DWO so it is easier to r/r the date jumper plate and spring.


    3...The not so easy fix for problem three is a taller canon pinion, hour wheel, and sweep second pinion but they are not very expensive and are easy to get. You could also raise the hands on the original tubes a little bit but this will not help very much.



    "IMHO TAG Heuer's Carrera line is just about as timeless as a watch line gets these days,"

    Agree but wish they had left TAG off the dial and just went with Heuer like on the Monaco. Imho their retro styles should be Heuer, not TAG Heuer. When the name 'TAG Heuer' comes to mind I see quartz dive watches.

    "Overall, as a brand, TAG Heuer could probably do without Formula 1 and Link."

    Agree again, the Formula has moved upscale in price too much to be an entry model and the LINK has an identity problem. I have a steel LINK that does not know if it is a dress watch or sport watch. The watch is rated at 200M and has a rotating bezel, screw down crown, crown guards etc but has a bracelet without a dive extension or adjustment. Dressy diver maybe?













    "Keep in mind guys it's either in house Swiss ,German, Seiko or other Asian quality movements in the future w/ ETA cutting off parts."

    TAG Heuer is making a brand change in their quartz movements, looks like they are going with Harley Ronda in place of Eta.



    Wearing a steel case/plastic bezel/rubber strap T/H Formula. It is from the late 1980s and has a pale yellow 'full glow' dial and plastic bezel. Added a sapphire crystal and now have a bit over $100 tied up in it. Big Money.


    Watch with (too short) original jubilee style bracelet...$72. Bezel...$5. Crystal...$18. Strap with fake signed deployant clasp...$8. Batt/gaskets...$2 Bezel from a doa $5 'Majestron' dive style watch. Genuine bezels are $100+. Absurd. Clasp from a doa flea mkt fake.

    Don't wear it outside much. Afraid a 12 year old kid might snatch it.













    "Why we have fake Tags is beyond me...by and large they're [censored] and cheap money."

    That hurts.


    From Laughing. I am deeply offended...about 200M/660feet deep.

    Some of my favorite watches are Tag Heuer. I am wearing one right now. Just now put it on.


    "They also they make ok beater watches for divers. They use Swiss ETA Quartz."

    This is the kind of T-H I like...low profile, reliable, waterproof, and cheap, like a Miami hooker.


    Never could see paying $150 for a fake quartz T-H when a genuine can be had for about the same $$.













    I have owned a couple genuine tutone WK 1120 and the most I paid for one was $250 and the other one was about $150 so they do not sell for much. The problem is the plating wears off the bezel and bracelet so they look ratty after a few years. This is probably the main reason why they do not sell for much. I doubt a replica would have very good plating at all and it would probably wear off in a hurry.

    I have seen nos bezels for sale on eBay from time to time and they sell for almost as much as a complete used watch. I have a stainless TAG Heuer that hangs on a hook over my workbench all the time so I looked to see what model it is...it's a WK 1112-0 and it looks a lot like the all steel 1120 and they go for $300 or $400 and I saw one similar to it on the TZ Sales Corner a couple days ago for $350. I would not try to repair a replica needing a bezel with genuine parts. A good used quartz TAG Heuer is about as cheap as a new replica.

    I guess I am one of very few RWG members who admit to liking simple quartz 'time and date' TAG Heuer watches.



    (it sold already but another one will show up)

    TAG Heuer 2000 series info:
















    Thanks for the info!


    A few years ago a guy at an NAWCC show said there were some very good 18k gold cases coming out of Vietnam. Never saw one that I know of and high gold prices may have killed them off by now. At the same time there were some high quality 18k unsigned cases made in Italy but gold prices have made them very expensive today. ST has them.


    My MBK cases are all exactly alike and all the specs are dead on. They are very high quality, especially considering what they sold for. Detailing and good letters/numbers would help a lot. From what I have heard, they are gone for good.


    I have two Yuki cases (5512, 5513) and they are very good too. The Yuki cases do not have the O ring groove under the crystal retaining bezel like the MBK cases. The grooves came in later genuine cases but do not know when they appeared. Yuki letters and numbers are pretty good.


    Have one IG44 1680 case, the fit and finish is superb but it has a slight 'canoe' shape looking at the sides, much like some the very early models I have seen in pictures. Do not know if they were made this way or the shape came from wear and polishing. Letters and numbers are very good.

    The case is shaped like on this 5513:


    https:// www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=178015

    (close the gap between // and www)














    I ask a lot of dumb quesions.

    I have answered a few too.


    Questions: What is a 'Vietnam' case? I see them in projects or for sale on the forum. How does anyone know for sure where a case is made? Who sells 'Vietnam' cases?


    I remember back when River was selling rolex replicas and many said the watches did not have China cases, Taiwan maybe.

    Paul on Abay supposedly sold China cased watches as do probably 90% of the dealers back then and now.

    WLD cases were supposed to be 'better than average'...if you ever got the watch. Made in ??

    MBW/MBK watches? I would guess MBW/MBK cases were Thailand made. Who knows?

    How about Yuki cases?

    Phong cases?


    I always figured the overall quality, accuracy, and detail were what mattered, not where they came from. If the case looks good, my next worry would be what type of metal did they use (most claim 316L).

    Or did they use:

    201? (stainless cookware)

    304? (outside structural applications)

    316L? (common for watches)

    404? (magnetic, easy to work with)

    UFO? UnidentiFied Old stainless scrap metal.



    "It's a trial and error thing, you get the feel of how tight a ring should be only by doing it."




    First step is to be sure the case neck is 28.2mm and the crystal is very close to oem spec. Next step is to make sure the crystal retaining bezel is a proper fit over the crystal (have to learn this by trial and error as stated above). Then it is up to how good the rotating bezel fits over the crystal retaining bezel.


    For what it's worth (nothing), I installed and removed a ST/Clark/watchman 408 rotating bezel over the crystal retainer bezel 30 or 40 times to see if it would become loose enough to be easy to knock off (all parts from the same kit). The answer is No. It still fits fine, has the proper tension when turning, and has no tendency to get knocked off. After installation, the trick to preserving 'tightness' is to always use a spacer/tension washer and push down on the rotating bezel when turning it. Pushing down greatly reduces friction and wear where the rotating bezel is snapped onto the crystal retaining bezel. Sometimes the tension washer can be a real headache and I have had to reduce the OD, enlarge the ID, and/or thin them down quite a few times. If you have a rotating bezel that turns Ok most of the way around but has a tight spot or two, you can smear Simichrome polish etc between them and turn the bezel back and forth a few dozen times and it will usually loosen up. Sometimes you have to replace the polishing compound 3 or 4 times. Be sure to remove the rotating bezel and clean all the polishing paste off when finished. Use a thick rubber glove for traction when turning the bezel through the tight spots.


    A very thin coat of liquid dishwashing soap will also help the crystal retaining bezel slip over the crystal and when it dries it is no longer very slick. Besides that, you can rinse most of it away under warm water when finished, unlike grease.

    You do not want any lubricant at all between the crystal and case neck for two reasons:

    1...It may travel onto the dial.

    2...It can make the crystal and both bezels easy to knock off of the case neck in one piece.

    A bit of grease between the rotating bezel and crystal retaining bezel will smooth out the action for a while but it collects dirt over time and turns into grinding compound.


    I have had the best luck with ST/Clark/watchman 408 bezel kits...the ones with the matte finish. MBK kits that come on the watches have been hit or miss. Never used a WSO kit. Genuine can be hit or miss too.













    "And again, not really worth finding a WG crown."



    I had a nos 'two dot' WG 6mm crown and sold it a while back after not needing it for 20 years. The fellow who bought it told me good used examples were going for $100 to $150 at the time so imho a WG gold crown might be off limits because of the price of the crown compared to the price of the watch. If I remember correctly, the WG crown cost about $60 new while YG crowns were $35 at the time, they always cost more than YG and even more now.


    Something else...my WG crown was the older style with a gold cap crimped over a nickel silver body so the new 'monoblock' style with a solid gold body to match a newer model watch would probably be even more $$. I looked through all my 'take off' crowns and did not find one used WG crown in case I missed one. Matter of fact, I have never owned or worked on a WG rolex. Probably never will.


    Twenty five years ago when a used YG single QS Prez went for around $7k, a WG model would strain to bring $5k or $6k. Passed on a 'four digit' plat DD for $4k back then. Dumb. Times have changed...100% hindsight.




    Btw, I always thought a monoblock was an Amal carburetor. You can spot them because the crankcase (and the ground under it) is wet with gasoline. We called them 'monofloods'.


    If the cork gasket in the fuel cut-off valve on the tank leaked gas into the carbs (as usual), sometimes you had to remove the spark plugs, put the bike in gear, and push it backwards to blow the gasoline out of the cylinders before you cranked it because the needles and seats always leaked. If the bike had been parked a long time you had to remove the drain plug from the crankcase and drain the gas/oil out. They were dry sump so a half pint of Castrol would fill it back up (owned a couple Norton Atlas and a Tri-hump or two).













    "I'm actually in the process of trying to build a vintage Heuer diver from odd parts"

    Me too but mine is a T/H 1000 from just after Heuer became TAG Heuer. Have a new bezel insert and hands plus a sapphire crystal to replace the MG that came in it and a new Eta 955.112 but never put it together because a watch like mine is not worth much at all now. The watches like the one pictured above are worth quite a bit today though.

    Here is a list of older models:




    It seems that watch snobs hate simple TAG Heuer quartz time and date dive models for some reason. Maybe because they are quartz, or they hate reliable watches that do not cost much, are deep water resistant, rugged, accurate, and will run for 20 years with a batt change now and then...or maybe because they like paying $1000 for a mech watch 'tune up' every few years so they can brag about it.















    Anyone in the market for quartz TAG Heuer 'time and date' watches and looking at replicas might also take a look at genuine watches for sale on TZ, eBay etc because many are not much $$ more than a replica now. One example is an 85% to 90% reference number 995 706K on TZ for $230USD (1-21-17). It is a classic design and well worth the money. Other models that can be found at bargain prices are the various TAG Heuer 2000 models. I have paid as little as $40 for them needing a little bit of TLC. They are quality everyday knock-around watches with a smaller profile than some of the current 'wrist burgers'.





    Imho it would probably be easier and less $$ to go with a ready made 31mm replica and not go to the expense of a genuine dial.


    Since there is no way to know if a genuine dial will work with an Eta 2836 (date offset, dial window/seat OD etc) the project may be doomed from the start because many replicas have oversize dials.

    Many times projects using genuine dials are a downhill run because they will not fit replica cases and cutting dial feet off makes the dial worth a lot less.


    Btw...genuine rolex 31mm watches use lady size watch movements and the watch in the link is said to have a 'swiss' eta 2836...a close fit as the case is 31mm and the movement is 26.0mm so that only leaves 2.5mm case thickness for case back/case tube threads etc.













    "Wrong CG shape, Aspirin dial, wrong bezel teeth."

    "If u want a decent 1675 get an 1655 case."


    ...plus bracelet side links are a little bit too thick and slightly humped up on top making them look thick, fast beat movement, etc. Genuine rivet oyster side links are slightly curved but are the same thickness all the way across.

    My guess is it will cost $700 to $1200 to put one of these watches together using medium to high quality parts so it might be better to start with a good 1655 case, high quality dial/hands, swiss eta 2846 with Asian 24H conversion or DG 3804B and go from there.

    ...or buy the one relalxman has for sale.



    I have one of the 1675 GMT models from 10 or 15 years ago with a swiss eta 2836/Asian 24H conversion and was going to make a 'better' 1675 by swapping the 2836 out for a 2846 but decided it would be a lot easier to just let it be a later model quick set 28800 bph 16750 with printed marker dots and matte dial. It has the OPD dial on it so there is not much hope without a dial anyway and it came with a 6mm crown, not 5.3mm. Have not seen a replica 1675 that came with a 5.3mm crown...yet.

    I bought some dials from IG44 when they were in business (two red 1680, three 5513, one 5512) but did not think far enough ahead to get 1675 or 1655 dials for my other projects. 100% hindsight. The IG44 dials are very, very good imho.













    "If I were you I'd just keep it."


    Good advice. In 2 or 3 years you will miss it.


    I kept a couple 'nos' F520117 swisseta 'noobmariners' from 10 or 12 years ago. Glad I did. Now they are repli-classics.

    Sort of...



    One that I traded away in 2005 came in last week for a new crown. Twelve years with one c/o and a crown. Not bad.



    noobmariner story:
















    That case looks super fine!

    mir36: "Makes me wish I had a lathe."

    I thinned the case sides down on a DW 1680 case using a cheapo Harbor Freight disc sander. It took a while and I never finished the lug bevels or removed the CG so the lug thinning part of it can be done without expensive machinery...but it is slow going. The mid case is 5.2mm thick in the middle of the 9 o'clock side and the same at the 3 o'clock side (centered over the case tube threads) so it may be thin enough as is. The DW case is made for a rolex 1570/5 date mvt or ETA 2836. I have an aftmkt 8mm tube/crown set but paying mucho $$ for a bezel would hold me back.

    rolojack...Please measure the thickness of your case in the center and see how thick it is if you get a chance. I would like to know how close mine is.













    This is probably no help at all but I have a couple reference 6605 DJ watches with roulette DW so I looked the rlx pn up and the DW for the cal 1065 ref 6605 is the same pn as a 1065GMT movement in a ref 6542...pn 7090. Maybe the same roulette DW was used in many of the 10xx movements.

    Trivia...the numbers run clockwise on the 1065, 1065GMT etc but run counter clockwise on the day-date models with this base movement.













    Many after market/replica oyster style bracelets have suitable hollow round top end links so maybe you can find one. That is what I did.


    You can remove the figure 8 links by spreading them apart carefully so they will come off the bracelet.













    "Now, you might ask where I got that lovely sacrificial midlink to cobble in there?"

    I keep a lookout for them on used bracelets of all kinds at yard sales and flea markets. Sometimes you can snag a bracelet with them for $3 or so.











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