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Gordonbon

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Gordonbon last won the day on March 28 2015

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About Gordonbon

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  1. I have tried : - contact form on the website - e-mail provided in this thread I can't see any NDT related stuff on the bay right now
  2. I had the same model as yours - drilled lugged two-liner. Aside from the slightly odd Oyster Perpetual font and wokky rehaut I thought it was a nice rep. I eventually swapped it for the new SD - a better rep for the money IMHO
  3. A competent watchmaker will disassemble the movement completely, and use the correct oil in the correct places when reassembling. Most of the watches coming from China have D&D movements (Dirty and dry). They are buying the cheapest grades of bulk movements. Even the ETA movements are not always cleaned and oiled properly. If the bench area is in a dusty environment, and the movement is left out and unprotected, it will get dust inside. Another thing, a good watchmaker can adjust the movement in at least 3 positions and it will run as accurately as it is possible to run. I always have my movements serviced if it's a watch I plan to keep. The watchmakes shouldn't have to replace any parts, but he will use the correct lubricants and the movement will be clean, both of which will result in greater accuracy and longivity.
  4. Gordonbon

    What to Build Next?

    Either a vintage GMT, or a Tudor Snowflake
  5. no gen insert not fit ! the pure time insert is 0.5mm smaller
  6. Dots on the dial, movement ring and screws/tabs
  7. Dial Dots are WONDERFUL. I have a couple I've used - getting the Dial Dots from Ofrei or Esslinger (forgot which). They are great.
  8. i got mine from josh and it the lume looks pretty white i have a pic somewhere will update with it later lol
  9. Looks pretty darn good for a 22 year old watch. As was said, have to open it up to make sure the movement is correct. I am a little concerned about the bracelet. It may be the correct one, but the fit of the endlinks doesn't look right. It looks like the bracelet is attached directly to the watch, with no endlinks? Cancel that thought, I just had a look at several obviously genuine, and they all look exactly like hers. If she got it at a good price, it looks fine. What about service? has it been recently serviced?
  10. The pics I've seen of Nanuq's gen looks 'gilty' in spots and white in others to me. To my knowledge, all the 1950s gilt dials were gloss. Age has diminished the gloss for certain. How much gloss now is up to us. The decal manufacturer I use recommended using Krylon crystal clear to seal the decal. It comes in gloss, matte or flat. The Krylon is cheap at Walmart, and it does not make the ink bleed. That's what I used on the bare brass to tone it down some, in matte with the decal finished in gloss. The more 'gilt' in the printing the less of the dial shows through. It will knock down the gold or brassy of the dial for the look that you want. But. And there always is a 'but'. Inkjet uses green in the mix to make the gold color, and that comes through on my equipment. As it set and dried, the green 'tint' was more pronounced. I used Photoshop to blow the pic up, find all the green I could and delete it out. It helped a lot. But I am still experimenting with that.
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