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About AdinaW

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  1. Well it sounds like he really just needs an insert, datewheel and waterproofing. Possibly a movement service. The bk dssd has a better movement which has not been steamed up like his current one. I get the feeling (maybe incorrectly) that he is mostly disappointed with the quality of the watch he bought. I might be wrong, but often it is a false economy to buy something cheap, and then upgrade. It is like buying a squire guitar, upgrading the frets, the tuners, the pickups, the pots, and you have spent so much that you could have bought a fender. It is a pity to be so disappointed withen a few days of buying something, and maybe the initial purchase was the mistake.
  2. Its a two-tone ladies, white face with roman numerals, jubilee bracelet
  3. I'm not sure I'm going to do anything with the case. I don't have a dial, movement, hands or crystal, I just wanted some experience on a cheap case. I tried to drill it for the 2mm spring bars I thought vintage rollies came with. Which ones came with solid bars? If I can get a hold of a dial and cheapo movement I might try to assemble something.
  4. Totally awesome! I really mean that, but for me, It's gotta be on a bracelet.
  5. I'd go with the Asian 2836-2 ( the swiss costs more and there's no guarantee you'll actually get a gen swiss mvt.) Many claim the 2813 is an excellent/reliable GMT mvt. And it may very well be. I've never used them for the simple fact that they are a 21,600 mvt. I've never had any issues with the 2836-2 OR Asian 2836-2...ICHS
  6. TC V2 DWO should work nicely
  7. If you look at Nanuq's pic above, it is spider-cracked and nice patina. I can get that using the Krylon clear coat gloss using a heavy 2nd coat. Then after application, handling it a bit. Smoothing the decal with a clean fingertip dulls the gloss some. It's not like a painted dial that picks up every fingerprint, but the clear coat will wear out if you touch it too much. Also, I use, and Rolexaddict now uses too, a water based 'Glow-Paint' for the lume. I'm not in his league, but better than some of the gens I've seen on line. He uses a needle, I've tried that and an oiler, toothpick and everything else you can imagine. I've settled on a toothpick with a flattened tip for the round markers. One dip, touch and it's perfect. Thicker, as RA does takes two or three dip and touches. The markers are harder, take practice, I use a nib pen like they use for calligraphy. It's a couple of bucks at the art store. It too takes practice, but I feel I have better control with it. I've had "photographic issues" my entire life! If he could, I'd bet freddy would like to reach through the screen and shake me! Like all of it, practice, practice, practice! The end result is the pride of accomplishment.
  8. Did you ever get the date wheel installed? Would love to see a side by side with the Gen.
  9. AdinaW

    Buying from BK

    I am looking for a reliable rep sub seller. Can you direct me to "BK" please or to whom ever I can buy a good quality watch from? Thanks, Jim www.broadjam.com/jimburns
  10. You are welcome to try, but I am not aware of anyone who has been successful in fitting a Rolex GMT handset to ETA (if they do fit, then the hands are not gen).
  11. I need help. I started this project by buying up parts, and now I need some help to get the last bits and finish. I am building a milgauss dial and hands (6541 style) into a 1601 case from 1961. I have the case, dial, hands (although I may need to get different hands - these may fit 1570 and I'm not using a 1570 any more due to budget) I am trying to fit an Omega 2500C co-axial movement (based on ETA 2892, same dimensions I believe) into the space where the 1570 used to live. I need an adapter and Stilty's PM inbox is full. Help.[/b] The other help I need is to get the cyclops off the crystal (I bought a sapphire crystal with no cyclops, maybe I can use it?) And to get change the fluted gold for a smooth steel bezel. I bought the bezel. I have a steel crown, stem and stem tube so I can get away from the gold crown as well. If I don't have to change tube, the happier I am. I asked raffle times, but they aren't sure how to handle a 2892 based movement.
  12. Well Trevor definitely has my business if hes cheaper. One thing though, does he ever answer his emails? emailed him about it over 12 hrs ago, but no reply on his end. Is he still a trusted dealer around? heard he rarely answers emails anymore (so im not too sure i would want to hand over $150 just like that).
  13. Thought id ask the rolex experts on here. Thinking of getting the rolex submariner (damn rwg, why did you get my addicted to this hobby haha ). But I did not imagine that there would be so many different versions, ranging from $300-500. Now theres the usual version with the Asian movement, and i understand thats the cheapest for reasons of imperfection. However, my question lies with the 'perfect' and the 'ultimate' version. What is the difference between the two and is it really worth the additional $90 between the two? Sorry for a newbie question. http://www.trustytim...roducts_id=1234 http://www.trustytim...products_id=796 Kind of a pointless question to ask on here as well (considering im asking the rolex thread), but for those who have owned the Tag Heuer Aquaracer Chrono (Asian Mvt) and the Rolex submariner (ultimate or perfect) which one is the 'better' watch in terms of its quality/make/style? Thanks for taking the time to read this.
  14. AdinaW

    DW 7032: 589 Blues

    This is a very interesting idea, though total preservation of the hoops isn't a priority. If I can get it to fit, this endlink would most likely accompany this 7032 for the rest of its days! I have a 605 endlink currently making its way to me. (Talk about a drawn-out, piecemeal, mutt of a build...) I'll take a good look at the 605 and see if it matches up with the expert description in the OP, then proceed from there. Thanks! joerg: As I suspected, Yuki's case (and also Phong's, I think) has similarly inboard lugholes. I REALLY need to hear from marsupilami now!
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